Walter Van Beirendonck’s menswear collection for AW12, Lust never sleeps, was based around a literal face-off between masks: the kind that warriors in Papua, New Guinea, or voodoo high priests in the Caribbean paint on, and the leather kind that Western fetishists wear in big-city sex clubs. Using strictly black African models dressed bright tailored suits, fluffy mohairs, Clockwork Orange style bowler hats and full body leather waders.

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